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SUBU vs UNDERCOVER: similarities and differences

Compare brand traits, similarities and differences.

Reference brand: SUBU Swap brands

SUBU

Japan Founded 2016

Outdoor & functional · Minimal & basics · Polished & dressy

UNDERCOVER

Japan Founded 1990

Avant-garde & designer · Streetwear · Decoration & playfulness

Similarities and differences

Shared traits

  • No shared traits are available.

Different traits

  • Avant-garde & designer

    UNDERCOVER shows a stronger emphasis

  • Streetwear

    UNDERCOVER shows a stronger emphasis

This pair is not included in the similar brands recommendations.

Trait comparison

  • SUBU (solid line, circles)
  • UNDERCOVER (dashed line, squares)
Traits of SUBU and UNDERCOVER, shown relative to each brand.
How to read the chart

Traits farther from the centre are more prominent within each brand. The chart uses the same relative display as the brand profile. Area does not indicate brand quality or absolute differences between brands.

Traits by category

Bar lengths show how prominent each trait is within each brand.

  • SUBU
  • UNDERCOVER
Minimal & basics
SUBU：Relative prominence within the brand
UNDERCOVER：Relative prominence within the brand
Polished & dressy
SUBU：Relative prominence within the brand
UNDERCOVER：Relative prominence within the brand
Luxury & heritage
SUBU：Relative prominence within the brand
UNDERCOVER：Relative prominence within the brand
Avant-garde & designer
SUBU：Relative prominence within the brand
UNDERCOVER：Relative prominence within the brand
Decoration & playfulness
SUBU：Relative prominence within the brand
UNDERCOVER：Relative prominence within the brand
Streetwear
SUBU：Relative prominence within the brand
UNDERCOVER：Relative prominence within the brand
Trends & youth culture
SUBU：Relative prominence within the brand
UNDERCOVER：Relative prominence within the brand
Sporty & sportswear
SUBU：Relative prominence within the brand
UNDERCOVER：Relative prominence within the brand
Outdoor & functional
SUBU：Relative prominence within the brand
UNDERCOVER：Relative prominence within the brand

Basic information

Field
SUBU
UNDERCOVER
Country Japan Japan
Founded 2016 1990
Category Footwear Clothing
Other categories — Bags Accessories Footwear Lifestyle products

— indicates information that is not available.

Brand profiles

Brand lines

SUBU

  • SUBU NANNEN

    Within SUBU’s lineup, this outdoor-oriented derivative line is designed for use near fires, such as ...

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  • SUBU VAMP

    A derivative line positioned as an “evolved” version of SUBU, building on its signature comfort with...

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  • SUBU amp

    A premium label launched by SUBU in 2018, this derivative line is centered on “premium basics,” elev...

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  • SUBU RE:COLLECTION

    Re: is a spin-off line developed by SUBU as a sustainable collection that “moves forward toward the ...

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UNDERCOVER

  • SueUNDERCOVER

    Launched in 2013AW as UNDERCOVER’s second line for women, alongside JohnUNDERCOVER. It shapes the ex...

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  • UNDERCOVERISM

    After presenting its men’s collection in 2009, it was used as the name for UNDERCOVER’s main men’s l...

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  • the Shepherd UNDERCOVER

    A seasonless offshoot line launched in 2016, themed around adult clothing for everyday wear by Jun T...

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  • JohnUNDERCOVER

    Launched in 2013AW as UNDERCOVER’s second line for men, it debuted at the same time as SueUNDERCOVER...

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Collaborations

SUBU

  • 2025-11-28

    TOGA

    TOGA and SUBU’s first collaboration, featuring winter sandals that incorporate TOGA’s coin metal and Western motifs/graphics into SUBU slip-ons with brushed lining and a four-layer insole.

  • A.P.C.

    A.P.C. × SUBU (November 2024): two styles of winter sandals. Available in A.P.C.-like colors and materials, including black and khaki, they are also ideal as year-end gifts.

SUBU collaborations

UNDERCOVER

  • 2026-06-24

    VANS

    OTW by Vans × UNDERCOVER. The Classic Slip-On 98 and Sk8-Hi are reimagined with uppers featuring paintings by Emma Bennett and Jun Takahashi’s design language.

  • 2026-03

    Dickies

    UNDERCOVER × Dickies (around March 2026). A five-piece collection as the first mainline release for SS26, including an Eisenhower jacket, work pants/work shorts, and long- and short-sleeved shirts.

  • 2025-11-22

    nonnative

    In November 2025, the 2025 edition of the “OZISM” collaboration was released.

  • 2025-11-08

    fragment design

    In November 2025, released a capsule collection with fragment design.

  • 2025-10-30

    OTW by Vans

    In October 2025, a collaboration featuring OTW by Vans and Old Skool 36 / Era 95 (four styles in total) was released.

  • 2025-10-29

    Champion

    UNDERCOVER × Champion (second installment). Following the official announcement on 10/23, it was released on 10/29. Reverse Weave was updated to 11.5 oz, with further updates including an expanded color range and beaded patches.

UNDERCOVER collaborations

Brands similar to SUBU

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Brands similar to UNDERCOVER

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